A morning out in Águilas
What to do on a morning out in Águilas
Itinerary
- Pick up map from tourist office
- Visit to the Casino
- Coffee in the Plaza de Espana, and maybe a slice of cake...
- Visit to the Archaeological museum
- Visit to the Castillo de San Juan
- Photo opportunity by the Monumento al Ferrocarril
- Lunch
There is plenty of parking around the Plaza de España and in the surrounding streets, or along the seafront, particularly in winter.
The start point is the Tourist Information Office, Tel 968 49 32 85: pick up a map on the corner of Plaza de Alfonso Escámez, almost opposite the Casino, one of the grand old buildings of the town. Built during 1895, it was the centre of civilized society in the town.
Wall paintings by Murcia artist José Sánchez lend a feeling of faded splendour and days gone by, recalling the times when the Casino was frequented by those engaged in the project to build the Lorca-Baza- Aguilas Railway. This project was undertaken by the British South Eastern Railway Company, who were also responsible for starting one of the first ever football teams in Spain.
There are still a number of families in the area with half British names, as some moved here to work and never left, and an excellent book is available from booksellers in the town which gives the history of the whole railway project, written in both English and Spanish. "Águilas y los Ingleses" is the work of Antonio Hernández Moreno and also covers the history of esparto production, a fascinating topic in its own right and another extremely important industry in the history of Águilas.
After seeing the Casino walk along a couple of short streets to the Plaza de España, a tranquil, shaded haven where a very pleasurable cup of coffee can be enjoyed in the outdoor seating areas. Then walk or drive up to the castle high on the hill above you. The Plaza de España is home to the main parish church of San José andthe Town Hall (or Ayuntamiento), an interesting building with a Moorish-style façade.This Plaza is the location for many cultural events and celebrations and some of the key events of the annual Carnival take place here.
From here those with an interest in history can call in at the Archaeological Museum where a mixture of artefacts relating to the local history of the area can be seen.
Alternatively, if you have a sweet tooth, check out Confiteráa Enrique, which has been in the same premises in the Plaza de España since 1880. The place overflows with cream-filled treats, magnificent great horns stuffed with cream and chocolate,and enormous nests of sweet orange cream in true traditional Spanish style. You'll burn off the calories climbing up the hill in a minute!
To access the castle, walk back to the tourist office, go straight up Calle Murillo, and you'll see steps going up at the end of the street in front of you. These cut through to the street behind, which then climbs up to the castle. It's a steep walk, so don't even attempt it unless you're pretty fit.
It's possible to drive up during the winter, but during high summer it is difficult to park, with only limited spaces.. Drive straight up Calle Murillo, and take the second turn on the left, which takes you straight into a steep corner and up. There is parking right at the foot of the steps.
The castle now has a lift to take visitors up to the main entrance, and the views at the top are absolutely stunning.
The Castillo de San Juan that we see today dates back to 1756, although there were other towers built on the same location hundreds of years before, with the ruins of a hexagonal Moorish "Hisn" the earliest confirmed remains, dating from the latter years of the 11th century.
Alfonso X is known to have maintained a garrison here between 1252 and 1284 to warn Lorca of possible attack from the Berber Pirates, a menace which harassed and attacked this coast for hundreds of years, destroying the structures preceding this one on more than one occasion. The last written record of these attacks dates from 1643, when a communication was sent to the King informing him that the Moors had attacked and destroyed the castle.
The existing replacement was built in 1756 and dedicated to San Juan, Saint John, comprising three distinct structures; the San Pedro cannon battery, the ammunition depot and store and the central courtyard and artillery terrace.
Exhibits inside give interesting information about the lot of a serving soldier, as well as displays which feature the main products of the town: fish, esparto and ores. But the main reason for visiting the Castle has to be the stunning views.
One very interesting audiovisual shows the journey of a descendant of one of the team who built the railway ,re-tracing his grandfather's steps and visiting the area, and other displays give more information about the prehistorical finds surrounding Aguilas. There are not many display cases to see but the structure of the fortress is very unusual and presents one great view after another.
Leaving the castle, go back down head for the sea, aiming to arrive on the Explanada del Puerto.
At the end of this, on the left hand side, you'll see the Monumento al Ferrocarril, a magnificent steam engine, built in Glasgow in 1889 and shipped over to work on the newly constructed line in Águilas. Incredibly, this train remained in service until 1967, and was then placed here in memory of the prosperity the line brought to the area and the men who built it.
Where to Eat in Águilas
By now it's likely that hunger pangs will be making their presence felt. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from along the seafront, but we were recommended to carry on a little further along the bay, heading for the pharmacy marked on the tourist map opposite the Puerto Deportivo.
We were advised that the large restaurant on the corner did a reasonable Menú del Día on Sundays and was well-priced during the week, but we spotted La Tasca on the corner of Calle del Aire and Paseo de la Estacion, a nicely typical Spanish traditional restaurant advertising an excellent Sunday menu. Salad and bread, rice, steak, dessert and wine at a very good price.
Have a look at the pharmacy opposite on your way out, the hand painted tiles make it one of the nicest-looking chemists' around!
Castillo de San Juan Opening Hours and Charges
Practicalities
Castillo de San Juan, Entry 2 euros adults, 1 euro groups. Click for seasonal opening hours.Castillo de San Juan.
Casino, train and museum: no charge.
Would we recommend it?
Absolutely, we had a great morning out. The only downside may be the steep climb to the castle, but it's an excellent way to wear out the kids if they've got energy to burn!
More information about Águilas including beaches, what to see, what's on and tourist information can be found on ÁGUILAS TODAY.
